π Around the World with Beyondia 𧡠Mediterranean Region πͺ‘ Episode 6 In Dalmatia, they say a fish should travel three times in its life. From the sea to the net. From the net to the fire. From the fire to your plate. Never further. There is a word in Dalmatia β pomalo Pomalo roughly […]
Dalmatia ππ· What the sea gave, the stone cooked Read More Β»
π Around the World with Beyondia 𧡠Mediterranean Region πͺ‘ Episode 5 You hear Plitvice before you see it. I walked in from the upper entrance, to Plitvice lakes down a path thick with beech and fir, and the forest did what forests do β muffled the world, shrank my attention to the ten meters
Plitvice ππ· The Sound You’ll Never Forget Read More Β»
π Around the World with Beyondia 𧡠Mediterranean Region πͺ‘ Episode 4 Zagreb’s trams have been running since 1891. But the real heart of the city is Dolac β open every morning since 1930. Locals call it Zagreb’s belly. There are cities people visit to see landmarks. Zagreb is not one of them. Zagreb is
Zagreb ππ· The City That Slowed Me Down Read More Β»
π Around the World with Beyondia 𧡠Mediterranean Region πͺ‘ Episode 3 The morning in Istria doesn’t begin with coffee. It begins with a cow. She was already awake when I walked to the barn β the kind of cow that has done this so many times she finds the human’s nervousness slightly embarrassing. The
Istria ππ· How Rural Croatia Has Eaten for Centuries Read More Β»
I flew from Crete to Cairo. There was no ferry β that crossing stopped being practical decades ago. I watched the Mediterranean change colour through the window as Africa appeared, first as a brown line, then as a city so large it seemed to have no edges. Egypt The first Egypt moment β Giza The
What Silence Weighs β Egypt Reflections Read More Β»
Route: Cairo (Pyramids, Souq, Nile) β Luxor (Valley of the Kings, Karnak, Luxor Temple) Distance: 510 km (by air or rail β not a driving route) Transport: Domestic flight (1 hour) or overnight Talgo sleeper train (9β10 hours) Recommended duration: 5β7 days (2β3 Cairo, 2β3 Luxor) Best months: OctoberβApril Currency: Egyptian Pound (EGP). Approximately 50β52
Cairo to Luxor πͺπ¬ The River and the Stone Read More Β»
A morning in Heraklion. I was walking along the harbour wall β the Venetian one, built in the sixteenth century by people who expected it to still be standing when they were not β and I stopped at a place where someone had carved letters into the stone. Not graffiti. Something older. A name, or
What a Stone Remembers Read More Β»
π Around the World with Beyondia 𧡠Mediterranean Region πͺ‘ Episode 2 I arrived in Lovran by scent. The laurel got there first. Lovran – The town is named after a tree. I didn’t know a place could be named after a smell. In Croatian, lovor means laurel β the bay leaf, the Roman victor’s
Lovran ππ· Smells of laurel or Between the sea and UΔka Read More Β»
Around the World with Beyondia 𧡠Mediterranean Region πͺ‘ Journal 1 Rovinj. Where the Adriatic teaches you that everything you need is already here. Rovinj I came to Croatia expecting coastline. I got a whole education. Rovinj sits on a peninsula that was an island until the Venetians filled in the canal in 1763. The
Rovinj Gave Me a Speargun and a Bucket ππ· Read More Β»
π Around the World with Beyondia 𧡠Mediterranean Region πͺ‘ Episode 1 I crossed the Adriatic and arrived somewhere Italy forgot to invent. – That was the first sentence I ever spoke about this journey. It was also the first sentence that turned out to be true. Rovinj was an island until 1763 Not folklore
Rovinj ππ· Colourful streets and sunsets that don’t exist anywhere else Read More Β»